Sunday, 5 July 2015

JEEZ! its been a quick year!

well where do I start.  its been just about a year from my last post, and don't think its not because ive been super busy (which I have with university and all) I've been posting less, to be totally honest, I just forgot my password and couldnt be fucked with the hassel of trying to reset it after I forgot the account email! but its all good Im back now and here are some photos from whats been going on.  Today I was at Moy with my new found friend and climbing partner Kelly, we had the whole place to ourselves!  bonus!  we climbed epithelial artery 4c, Venus Return 4c, Moy Soldiers 5c, L plate 5a and corvus 5c+.  cracking day, another hit to the alps scheduled for august!  a few pics from the year....
quick selfie one Staircase Crack (Severe), Cummingston,

Kelly abseils off the stack at Cummingston

another selfie whilst leading L Plate (5a) at Moy today



Sunshine Groove (Severe) at Cummingston

Lumside Crack (severe) at 2300hrs!

L Plate, Moy
 
me on the Crux of Good Friday Left Variant (III,4) Ben Nevis North Face

walking into Indicator Wall, Ben Nevis

Peter walking up Observatory Gully, Ben Nevis North Face

Quick post crux self on Good Friday Left Variant

Peter on the final slopes above Good Friday Left Variant, Ben Nevis North Face
 
me putting a line up Wire Worm (moderate) at Rosyth Quarry

Chemical Warfare (severe) Rosyth Quarry
 
Great days cragging at Benny Beg with Tammy

Tammy enjoying Bennys Groove (2) at Benny Beg


James and I at Silver Rock near Golspie ...don't go, its well shite!

Kelly surveys Cummingston before an awesome nights climbing

Kelly leads off up Epithelial Artery (4c) at Moy today

Craig enjoying the atmosphere of the Bens North Face

Smiles and snow, what else could be better?

Gorse Route (severe) at Cummingston










Sunday, 3 August 2014

A wet week in Chamonix with Paul and Simon

After Ali had left and taken the sunshine with her, I met up with Paul and Simon.  The idea was to complete a few acclimitisation routes in order to prepare for and undertake upon an ascent of Mont Blanc.  The first day was a total write off, heavy persistent rain had forced us to participate in a free wifi pilgrimage of Chamonix.  Day two wasnt much better but we agreed if nothing else we should atleast start the acclimitisation process and took the lift up the Midi.  From the top station, we made our way down the ridge and across the Col du Midi to the Cosmiques hut at the base of the Cosmiques Arete where we had some coffee and a bit of whinging about the weather before the inevitable slog back up to the midi top station to get the lift back down to Cham.  The next day out was a little better and gave us a good 14hr weather window.  Given the uncertain nature of the weather, we decided on a good quick hit on a traverse of the Pointes Lachenal.  This is a great AD route which takes in 3 high points along a short(ish) ridge which the guys managed no problem.  Unfortunately the weather didnt play ball, with a lot of heavy snowfall in the previous days and no real break in the conditions I decided that it was unjustifiably risky to go anywhere near the 3 monts route.  I was saddened to hear on my return to the UK that 2 Italian climbers were killed in an avalanche on this route the day after we had decided not to press on.  What we did do, was to go up to the cosmiques hut and spent the night there, making for a good early start on the Cosmiques Arete the next morning.  Although we were all disappointed not to summit Mont Blanc, the guys did have a good few days out and it was a great introduction to alpine mountaineering.  I'd like to congratulate Paul and Simon on their successes on the Cosmiques and on Pointe Lachenal, the big bastard will still be there next time lads :)




the guys after topping out on Cosmiques Arete

Pea soup on the first day up high

gorgeous view

better weather for Pointe Lachenal!

Paul and Simon with the Aiguille du Midi in the background

making our way to the first Pointe up a snowslope

Paul and Simon on the fist Pointe

Paul, Simon and myself on the last Point of the traverse

Pointe Lachenal with weather closing in from the Italian side

Paul on the 2nd abseil on Cosmiques Arete

Simon and Paul just after the crux

Ali in the Alps!

I have been horrendously busy the past few weeks and the old Blog is always the first to suffer!  After my last day guiding Christine on the Ben, Ali and I left and headed for Chamonix to get some climbing done and have a bit of a busmans holiday.  We got to Cham after a horrendous bus journey thanks to National Express being to bus journeys what Brian Blessed is to libraries.  Anyway, we got there and we spent the first day trying to forget the journey, the second day we headed to the Gaillands climbing area which was (and always is) absolutely mobbed, after bagging a few routes we had decided it was infact too hot to climb.  The next day we got the but to Argentiere and climbed the Aiguilette d'Argentiere.  This is a great route and a very pleasant day out, offering great views of the valley and the odd charmoz or two.  After this it was time for Ali to bag her first ever alpine route and Cosmiques Arete was the natural choice.  A great AD route, with a short walk in and no walk out that can be done in as little as 3-5hrs depending on the traffic jams in all the usual places.  The weather was perfect, the rock was dry and the day was very enjoyable indeed (even meeting Ali's strict criteria for a good day out!).  After we topped out, a quick 40 euros later and we were enjoying tea (as negotiated by Ali before we had even left the UK) and some chips at the cafe in the Midi.  2 days later Ali left Chamonix and took all the good weather, much to the disappointment of Paul, Simon and myself who stayed on another week.

Ali chilling at Lac Bleu

The Midi from Lac Bleu

Ali on the sharp end in the Gaillands 

too hot to climb!

cheeky Charmoz in the Aiguilles Rouge 

Ali and the Aiguilette d'Argentiere

Me on P1 of the Aiguilette

Ali at the top looking toward Mont Blanc

job done!

Ali happy on the Cosmiques

Ali enjoying the view

Beautiful girlfriend, beautiful view = Happy days

me on the 'crux' crack

Ali seconds the crack

knackered and hot!

Saturday, 12 July 2014

11.07.14 - Tower Ridge and my last days guiding on the Ben

Today was the last day of Up and Doon guided walks Munro bagging week.  This was also my last day guiding.  After having done a bit of scrambling earlier in the week on Stob Ban and Sgurr a' Mhaim, we decided to go out in style and chose Tower Ridge as our route of choice.  Tower Ridge is the obvious, impressive ridge splitting Coire na Ciste and Observatory Gully.  This impressive wedge is Scotlands longest route on her highest mountain.  Christine was a bit apprehensive at first but was reassured by the positive nature of the rock and the impressive scenery.    We made our way up the Douglas Boulder East Gully, up out of the Douglas Gap and onto the ridge proper.  We were blessed most of the day with great views of the coires and gullies of the Ben and neighbouring Carn Mor Dearg.  By the time we had reached the Great Tower and Tower Gap the mist had rolled in, much to Christines delight!  a short time later we were on the summit.  Mixed emotions for me.  What a way to spend my last days guiding on the Ben, a classic route, great weather and a great client.  As we left the summit I paused and looked at what I was due to miss.  The summit of Ben Nevis has become a very special place for me, a home from home.  I would be lying if I had said I didnt have a small lump in my throat.  Still onwards and upwards, a new world awaits and no matter where my work may take me, guiding in the mountains of Scotland will always have a very special place in my heart.  Thanks to everyone I've ever worked for or with and most of all, thanks to all the great people I've met over the years.  I am forever in your debt.

Christine on the walk in to the CIC hut 
Christine sizes up Tower Ridge

Tower Ridge in all its grandeur 

Christine enjoying the route and views

is there a better place to stop for lunch? 

Looking over to Carn Dearg 

Just below the Great Tower

Christine proud on the summit

not goodbye, just cheerio.